# What does this error code mean? > The code on your car, appliance or machine — what it means and how to fix it. URL: https://allproblemssolved.aplusz.app/en/what-does-this-error-code-mean/ Language: English (en) ## The problem Machines speak in codes and the manual is gone: a dashboard light, a washing machine flashing E4, a boiler showing F28. Who it hits: Every owner of anything with a display. ### The shapes it takes - Car warning lights and OBD codes - Washing machines and dishwashers - Boilers and heating - Air conditioners - Printers and routers ### What this page gives you The meaning, and the fix. ## Type the code you see Like P0420, 4C, F.28, 0x80070005, NW-2-5 Nothing you type here is sent anywhere. ## Every code in our list The same code can mean something else on another model or year — your model's manual has the final word. ### Car — engine code (from a code reader) - **P0011** — Camshaft A timing over-advanced (bank 1). Camshaft timing is out of the expected range. Get this checked soon. Check the oil level and change the oil if it's due — dirty or low oil often causes this. If it stays, a garage should check the timing chain or belt and its solenoid. - **P0016** — Crankshaft and camshaft positions don't agree (bank 1, sensor A). Camshaft timing is out of the expected range. Get this checked soon. Check the oil level and change the oil if it's due — dirty or low oil often causes this. If it stays, a garage should check the timing chain or belt and its solenoid. - **P0068** — Air-flow reading and throttle position don't agree. A sensor the engine relies on sends a signal that is too high, too low, or doesn't make sense. Get this checked soon. Check its plug and wiring for damage or corrosion. A garage can test the sensor before replacing it. - **P0087** — Fuel rail pressure too low. Fuel pressure is lower than it should be. Get this checked soon. A weak fuel pump or a blocked filter is the usual cause. Expect stalling or loss of power — get it checked soon. - **P0101** — Mass air flow (MAF) sensor reading out of range. A sensor the engine relies on sends a signal that is too high, too low, or doesn't make sense. Get this checked soon. Check its plug and wiring for damage or corrosion. A garage can test the sensor before replacing it. - **P0102** — Mass air flow (MAF) sensor signal low. A sensor the engine relies on sends a signal that is too high, too low, or doesn't make sense. Get this checked soon. Check its plug and wiring for damage or corrosion. A garage can test the sensor before replacing it. - **P0103** — Mass air flow (MAF) sensor signal high. A sensor the engine relies on sends a signal that is too high, too low, or doesn't make sense. Get this checked soon. Check its plug and wiring for damage or corrosion. A garage can test the sensor before replacing it. - **P0106** — Manifold pressure (MAP) sensor reading out of range. A sensor the engine relies on sends a signal that is too high, too low, or doesn't make sense. Get this checked soon. Check its plug and wiring for damage or corrosion. A garage can test the sensor before replacing it. - **P0107** — Manifold pressure (MAP) sensor signal low. A sensor the engine relies on sends a signal that is too high, too low, or doesn't make sense. Get this checked soon. Check its plug and wiring for damage or corrosion. A garage can test the sensor before replacing it. - **P0108** — Manifold pressure (MAP) sensor signal high. A sensor the engine relies on sends a signal that is too high, too low, or doesn't make sense. Get this checked soon. Check its plug and wiring for damage or corrosion. A garage can test the sensor before replacing it. - **P0113** — Intake air temperature sensor signal high. A sensor the engine relies on sends a signal that is too high, too low, or doesn't make sense. Get this checked soon. Check its plug and wiring for damage or corrosion. A garage can test the sensor before replacing it. - **P0117** — Engine coolant temperature sensor signal low. A sensor the engine relies on sends a signal that is too high, too low, or doesn't make sense. Get this checked soon. Check its plug and wiring for damage or corrosion. A garage can test the sensor before replacing it. - **P0118** — Engine coolant temperature sensor signal high. A sensor the engine relies on sends a signal that is too high, too low, or doesn't make sense. Get this checked soon. Check its plug and wiring for damage or corrosion. A garage can test the sensor before replacing it. - **P0121** — Throttle position sensor A reading out of range. A sensor the engine relies on sends a signal that is too high, too low, or doesn't make sense. Get this checked soon. Check its plug and wiring for damage or corrosion. A garage can test the sensor before replacing it. - **P0122** — Throttle position sensor A signal low. A sensor the engine relies on sends a signal that is too high, too low, or doesn't make sense. Get this checked soon. Check its plug and wiring for damage or corrosion. A garage can test the sensor before replacing it. - **P0123** — Throttle position sensor A signal high. A sensor the engine relies on sends a signal that is too high, too low, or doesn't make sense. Get this checked soon. Check its plug and wiring for damage or corrosion. A garage can test the sensor before replacing it. - **P0125** — Engine takes too long to warm up enough for fuel control. The engine isn't reaching its normal temperature — often a thermostat stuck open. Get this checked soon. Watch the temperature gauge. Heating may be weak and fuel use higher. A garage can replace the thermostat. - **P0128** — Engine coolant stays below the thermostat's temperature. The engine isn't reaching its normal temperature — often a thermostat stuck open. Get this checked soon. Watch the temperature gauge. Heating may be weak and fuel use higher. A garage can replace the thermostat. - **P0131** — Oxygen sensor signal low (bank 1, sensor 1). An oxygen (lambda) sensor, or its heater, isn't working as expected. Get this checked soon. Oxygen sensors wear out — a garage can test and replace the sensor. Fuel use may rise until it's fixed. - **P0133** — Oxygen sensor slow to respond (bank 1, sensor 1). An oxygen (lambda) sensor, or its heater, isn't working as expected. Get this checked soon. Oxygen sensors wear out — a garage can test and replace the sensor. Fuel use may rise until it's fixed. - **P0134** — No activity from oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1). An oxygen (lambda) sensor, or its heater, isn't working as expected. Get this checked soon. Oxygen sensors wear out — a garage can test and replace the sensor. Fuel use may rise until it's fixed. - **P0135** — Oxygen sensor heater circuit (bank 1, sensor 1). An oxygen (lambda) sensor, or its heater, isn't working as expected. Get this checked soon. Oxygen sensors wear out — a garage can test and replace the sensor. Fuel use may rise until it's fixed. - **P0137** — Oxygen sensor signal low (bank 1, sensor 2). An oxygen (lambda) sensor, or its heater, isn't working as expected. Get this checked soon. Oxygen sensors wear out — a garage can test and replace the sensor. Fuel use may rise until it's fixed. - **P0138** — Oxygen sensor signal high (bank 1, sensor 2). An oxygen (lambda) sensor, or its heater, isn't working as expected. Get this checked soon. Oxygen sensors wear out — a garage can test and replace the sensor. Fuel use may rise until it's fixed. - **P0141** — Oxygen sensor heater circuit (bank 1, sensor 2). An oxygen (lambda) sensor, or its heater, isn't working as expected. Get this checked soon. Oxygen sensors wear out — a garage can test and replace the sensor. Fuel use may rise until it's fixed. - **P0151** — Oxygen sensor signal low (bank 2, sensor 1). An oxygen (lambda) sensor, or its heater, isn't working as expected. Get this checked soon. Oxygen sensors wear out — a garage can test and replace the sensor. Fuel use may rise until it's fixed. - **P0152** — Oxygen sensor signal high (bank 2, sensor 1). An oxygen (lambda) sensor, or its heater, isn't working as expected. Get this checked soon. Oxygen sensors wear out — a garage can test and replace the sensor. Fuel use may rise until it's fixed. - **P0153** — Oxygen sensor slow to respond (bank 2, sensor 1). An oxygen (lambda) sensor, or its heater, isn't working as expected. Get this checked soon. Oxygen sensors wear out — a garage can test and replace the sensor. Fuel use may rise until it's fixed. - **P0155** — Oxygen sensor heater circuit (bank 2, sensor 1). An oxygen (lambda) sensor, or its heater, isn't working as expected. Get this checked soon. Oxygen sensors wear out — a garage can test and replace the sensor. Fuel use may rise until it's fixed. - **P0161** — Oxygen sensor heater circuit (bank 2, sensor 2). An oxygen (lambda) sensor, or its heater, isn't working as expected. Get this checked soon. Oxygen sensors wear out — a garage can test and replace the sensor. Fuel use may rise until it's fixed. - **P0171** — Fuel mixture too lean (bank 1). The engine is getting too much air, or too little fuel. Get this checked soon. Look for a cracked or loose air hose between the air filter and the engine. A dirty air-flow sensor, a weak fuel pump or a blocked fuel filter can also cause it — a garage can test each. - **P0172** — Fuel mixture too rich (bank 1). The engine is getting too much fuel, or too little air. Get this checked soon. Check the air filter. A leaking injector or a faulty sensor are common causes — have a garage check. - **P0174** — Fuel mixture too lean (bank 2). The engine is getting too much air, or too little fuel. Get this checked soon. Look for a cracked or loose air hose between the air filter and the engine. A dirty air-flow sensor, a weak fuel pump or a blocked fuel filter can also cause it — a garage can test each. - **P0175** — Fuel mixture too rich (bank 2). The engine is getting too much fuel, or too little air. Get this checked soon. Check the air filter. A leaking injector or a faulty sensor are common causes — have a garage check. - **P0200** — Fuel injector circuit. A fault in a fuel injector's electrical circuit. Get this checked soon. The engine may run rough. Check the injector's plug and wiring. A garage can test the injector and its wiring. - **P0201** — Fuel injector circuit, cylinder 1. A fault in a fuel injector's electrical circuit. Get this checked soon. The engine may run rough. Check the injector's plug and wiring. A garage can test the injector and its wiring. - **P0202** — Fuel injector circuit, cylinder 2. A fault in a fuel injector's electrical circuit. Get this checked soon. The engine may run rough. Check the injector's plug and wiring. A garage can test the injector and its wiring. - **P0203** — Fuel injector circuit, cylinder 3. A fault in a fuel injector's electrical circuit. Get this checked soon. The engine may run rough. Check the injector's plug and wiring. A garage can test the injector and its wiring. - **P0204** — Fuel injector circuit, cylinder 4. A fault in a fuel injector's electrical circuit. Get this checked soon. The engine may run rough. Check the injector's plug and wiring. A garage can test the injector and its wiring. - **P0217** — Engine overheating. The engine is too hot. Stop now — this can be dangerous, or cause serious damage. Stop somewhere safe and switch off the engine now. Don't open the radiator cap while hot. Let it cool, then check the coolant level. Call for help if it overheats again — driving on can destroy the engine. - **P0219** — Engine over-revving. The engine turned faster than its safe limit. Get this checked soon. Drive gently. If it happened on its own, have it checked soon. - **P0230** — Fuel pump primary circuit. Fuel pressure is lower than it should be. Get this checked soon. A weak fuel pump or a blocked filter is the usual cause. Expect stalling or loss of power — get it checked soon. - **P0299** — Turbocharger underboost. The turbocharger isn't giving the boost expected. Get this checked soon. Check for a split intercooler or boost hose. Power will be down: drive gently to a garage. - **P0300** — Random or multiple cylinder misfire. A cylinder isn't burning its fuel properly. Get this checked soon. If the engine light is flashing, drive gently and get it checked today: a misfire can ruin the catalytic converter. Spark plugs, ignition coils and injectors are the usual causes. - **P0301** — Cylinder 1 misfire. A cylinder isn't burning its fuel properly. Get this checked soon. If the engine light is flashing, drive gently and get it checked today: a misfire can ruin the catalytic converter. Spark plugs, ignition coils and injectors are the usual causes. - **P0302** — Cylinder 2 misfire. A cylinder isn't burning its fuel properly. Get this checked soon. If the engine light is flashing, drive gently and get it checked today: a misfire can ruin the catalytic converter. Spark plugs, ignition coils and injectors are the usual causes. - **P0303** — Cylinder 3 misfire. A cylinder isn't burning its fuel properly. Get this checked soon. If the engine light is flashing, drive gently and get it checked today: a misfire can ruin the catalytic converter. Spark plugs, ignition coils and injectors are the usual causes. - **P0304** — Cylinder 4 misfire. A cylinder isn't burning its fuel properly. Get this checked soon. If the engine light is flashing, drive gently and get it checked today: a misfire can ruin the catalytic converter. Spark plugs, ignition coils and injectors are the usual causes. - **P0305** — Cylinder 5 misfire. A cylinder isn't burning its fuel properly. Get this checked soon. If the engine light is flashing, drive gently and get it checked today: a misfire can ruin the catalytic converter. Spark plugs, ignition coils and injectors are the usual causes. - **P0306** — Cylinder 6 misfire. A cylinder isn't burning its fuel properly. Get this checked soon. If the engine light is flashing, drive gently and get it checked today: a misfire can ruin the catalytic converter. Spark plugs, ignition coils and injectors are the usual causes. - **P0307** — Cylinder 7 misfire. A cylinder isn't burning its fuel properly. Get this checked soon. If the engine light is flashing, drive gently and get it checked today: a misfire can ruin the catalytic converter. Spark plugs, ignition coils and injectors are the usual causes. - **P0308** — Cylinder 8 misfire. A cylinder isn't burning its fuel properly. Get this checked soon. If the engine light is flashing, drive gently and get it checked today: a misfire can ruin the catalytic converter. Spark plugs, ignition coils and injectors are the usual causes. - **P0325** — Knock sensor 1 circuit. A sensor the engine relies on sends a signal that is too high, too low, or doesn't make sense. Get this checked soon. Check its plug and wiring for damage or corrosion. A garage can test the sensor before replacing it. - **P0335** — Crankshaft position sensor A circuit. The engine computer can't read the crankshaft or camshaft position properly. Get this checked soon. The engine may stall or not start. Check the sensor's plug and wiring. Have it fixed before a long trip. - **P0340** — Camshaft position sensor A circuit. The engine computer can't read the crankshaft or camshaft position properly. Get this checked soon. The engine may stall or not start. Check the sensor's plug and wiring. Have it fixed before a long trip. - **P0351** — Ignition coil A circuit. A cylinder isn't burning its fuel properly. Get this checked soon. If the engine light is flashing, drive gently and get it checked today: a misfire can ruin the catalytic converter. Spark plugs, ignition coils and injectors are the usual causes. - **P0380** — Glow plug circuit A. A diesel glow plug circuit fault. Get this checked soon. Starting may be hard in the cold. A garage can test the glow plugs. - **P0400** — Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) flow. The exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system isn't flowing as it should. Get this checked soon. The EGR valve is often clogged with soot — a garage can clean or replace it. You can usually drive to the garage, but fuel economy and emissions suffer. - **P0401** — Too little exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) flow. The exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system isn't flowing as it should. Get this checked soon. The EGR valve is often clogged with soot — a garage can clean or replace it. You can usually drive to the garage, but fuel economy and emissions suffer. - **P0402** — Too much exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) flow. The exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system isn't flowing as it should. Get this checked soon. The EGR valve is often clogged with soot — a garage can clean or replace it. You can usually drive to the garage, but fuel economy and emissions suffer. - **P0403** — EGR control circuit. The exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system isn't flowing as it should. Get this checked soon. The EGR valve is often clogged with soot — a garage can clean or replace it. You can usually drive to the garage, but fuel economy and emissions suffer. - **P0404** — EGR reading out of range. The exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system isn't flowing as it should. Get this checked soon. The EGR valve is often clogged with soot — a garage can clean or replace it. You can usually drive to the garage, but fuel economy and emissions suffer. - **P0410** — Secondary air injection system. The secondary air injection system (it cleans the exhaust at cold start) has a fault. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Usually a failed pump or valve — safe to drive short-term; have it checked. - **P0411** — Secondary air injection: wrong flow. The secondary air injection system (it cleans the exhaust at cold start) has a fault. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Usually a failed pump or valve — safe to drive short-term; have it checked. - **P0420** — Catalytic converter not cleaning well enough (bank 1). The catalytic converter isn't cleaning the exhaust as well as it should. Get this checked soon. It is often caused by a misfire or an oxygen sensor fault — fix those first. Have the converter and sensors checked; the car may fail an emissions test. - **P0430** — Catalytic converter not cleaning well enough (bank 2). The catalytic converter isn't cleaning the exhaust as well as it should. Get this checked soon. It is often caused by a misfire or an oxygen sensor fault — fix those first. Have the converter and sensors checked; the car may fail an emissions test. - **P0440** — Evaporative emission (EVAP) system fault. A leak or fault in the system that keeps fuel vapour from escaping the tank. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Check the fuel cap first: tighten it until it clicks, or replace a worn one. The light can take a few drives to go out. If it stays on, a garage can smoke-test the system for leaks. - **P0441** — EVAP system: wrong purge flow. A leak or fault in the system that keeps fuel vapour from escaping the tank. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Check the fuel cap first: tighten it until it clicks, or replace a worn one. The light can take a few drives to go out. If it stays on, a garage can smoke-test the system for leaks. - **P0442** — EVAP system: small leak. A leak or fault in the system that keeps fuel vapour from escaping the tank. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Check the fuel cap first: tighten it until it clicks, or replace a worn one. The light can take a few drives to go out. If it stays on, a garage can smoke-test the system for leaks. - **P0443** — EVAP purge valve circuit. A leak or fault in the system that keeps fuel vapour from escaping the tank. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Check the fuel cap first: tighten it until it clicks, or replace a worn one. The light can take a few drives to go out. If it stays on, a garage can smoke-test the system for leaks. - **P0446** — EVAP vent control circuit. A leak or fault in the system that keeps fuel vapour from escaping the tank. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Check the fuel cap first: tighten it until it clicks, or replace a worn one. The light can take a few drives to go out. If it stays on, a garage can smoke-test the system for leaks. - **P0449** — EVAP vent valve circuit. A leak or fault in the system that keeps fuel vapour from escaping the tank. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Check the fuel cap first: tighten it until it clicks, or replace a worn one. The light can take a few drives to go out. If it stays on, a garage can smoke-test the system for leaks. - **P0451** — EVAP pressure sensor reading out of range. A leak or fault in the system that keeps fuel vapour from escaping the tank. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Check the fuel cap first: tighten it until it clicks, or replace a worn one. The light can take a few drives to go out. If it stays on, a garage can smoke-test the system for leaks. - **P0452** — EVAP pressure sensor signal low. A leak or fault in the system that keeps fuel vapour from escaping the tank. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Check the fuel cap first: tighten it until it clicks, or replace a worn one. The light can take a few drives to go out. If it stays on, a garage can smoke-test the system for leaks. - **P0453** — EVAP pressure sensor signal high. A leak or fault in the system that keeps fuel vapour from escaping the tank. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Check the fuel cap first: tighten it until it clicks, or replace a worn one. The light can take a few drives to go out. If it stays on, a garage can smoke-test the system for leaks. - **P0455** — EVAP system: large leak. A leak or fault in the system that keeps fuel vapour from escaping the tank. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Check the fuel cap first: tighten it until it clicks, or replace a worn one. The light can take a few drives to go out. If it stays on, a garage can smoke-test the system for leaks. - **P0456** — EVAP system: very small leak. A leak or fault in the system that keeps fuel vapour from escaping the tank. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Check the fuel cap first: tighten it until it clicks, or replace a worn one. The light can take a few drives to go out. If it stays on, a garage can smoke-test the system for leaks. - **P0457** — EVAP system leak: fuel cap loose or missing. A leak or fault in the system that keeps fuel vapour from escaping the tank. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Check the fuel cap first: tighten it until it clicks, or replace a worn one. The light can take a few drives to go out. If it stays on, a garage can smoke-test the system for leaks. - **P0461** — Fuel level sensor reading out of range. The fuel level sensor signal is wrong. Usually safe to sort out yourself. The fuel gauge may lie — fill up and track the distance until it's fixed. - **P0462** — Fuel level sensor signal low. The fuel level sensor signal is wrong. Usually safe to sort out yourself. The fuel gauge may lie — fill up and track the distance until it's fixed. - **P0463** — Fuel level sensor signal high. The fuel level sensor signal is wrong. Usually safe to sort out yourself. The fuel gauge may lie — fill up and track the distance until it's fixed. - **P0480** — Cooling fan 1 control circuit. A fault in the engine cooling fan's circuit. Get this checked soon. Watch the temperature gauge, above all in traffic — stop if it runs hot. Have the fan's fuse, relay and motor checked. - **P0496** — EVAP system: purge flow too high. A leak or fault in the system that keeps fuel vapour from escaping the tank. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Check the fuel cap first: tighten it until it clicks, or replace a worn one. The light can take a few drives to go out. If it stays on, a garage can smoke-test the system for leaks. - **P0497** — EVAP system: purge flow too low. A leak or fault in the system that keeps fuel vapour from escaping the tank. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Check the fuel cap first: tighten it until it clicks, or replace a worn one. The light can take a few drives to go out. If it stays on, a garage can smoke-test the system for leaks. - **P0500** — Vehicle speed sensor A. The vehicle speed signal is missing or wrong. Get this checked soon. The speedometer and gear changes may act up — have the sensor checked. - **P0505** — Idle air control system. The engine's idle speed is wrong. Usually safe to sort out yourself. A dirty throttle body or an air leak are common causes — a garage can clean it. - **P0506** — Idle speed lower than expected. The engine's idle speed is wrong. Usually safe to sort out yourself. A dirty throttle body or an air leak are common causes — a garage can clean it. - **P0507** — Idle speed higher than expected. The engine's idle speed is wrong. Usually safe to sort out yourself. A dirty throttle body or an air leak are common causes — a garage can clean it. - **P0513** — Key not recognised (immobiliser). The car doesn't recognise the key, so it may not start. Stop now — this can be dangerous, or cause serious damage. Try your spare key. Replace the key's battery. If neither works, call a dealer or an auto locksmith. - **P0520** — Oil pressure sensor circuit. The oil pressure reading is out of range. Stop now — this can be dangerous, or cause serious damage. Check the oil level now. If the red oil light is on, stop the engine immediately — low oil pressure destroys engines. - **P0521** — Oil pressure sensor reading out of range. The oil pressure reading is out of range. Stop now — this can be dangerous, or cause serious damage. Check the oil level now. If the red oil light is on, stop the engine immediately — low oil pressure destroys engines. - **P0532** — A/C refrigerant pressure sensor signal low. An air-conditioning pressure sensor fault. Usually safe to sort out yourself. The air-conditioning may not work. Safe to drive; have it checked. - **P0533** — A/C refrigerant pressure sensor signal high. An air-conditioning pressure sensor fault. Usually safe to sort out yourself. The air-conditioning may not work. Safe to drive; have it checked. - **P0562** — System voltage low. The car's electrical supply is too low or too high. Get this checked soon. Have the battery and alternator tested — many parts shops do it free. Check the battery terminals are clean and tight. - **P0563** — System voltage high. The car's electrical supply is too low or too high. Get this checked soon. Have the battery and alternator tested — many parts shops do it free. Check the battery terminals are clean and tight. - **P0571** — Brake switch A circuit. A fault in the brake light switch circuit. Get this checked soon. Check your brake lights work — ask someone to look. Cruise control may not work; replace the switch soon. - **P0600** — Communication link between control modules. An internal fault in an engine or gearbox computer. Get this checked soon. A one-off glitch can clear after the battery is disconnected for a few minutes. If it returns, a garage needs to diagnose or reprogram the computer. - **P0601** — Engine computer memory error. An internal fault in an engine or gearbox computer. Get this checked soon. A one-off glitch can clear after the battery is disconnected for a few minutes. If it returns, a garage needs to diagnose or reprogram the computer. - **P0602** — Engine computer programming error. An internal fault in an engine or gearbox computer. Get this checked soon. A one-off glitch can clear after the battery is disconnected for a few minutes. If it returns, a garage needs to diagnose or reprogram the computer. - **P0603** — Engine computer keep-alive memory error. An internal fault in an engine or gearbox computer. Get this checked soon. A one-off glitch can clear after the battery is disconnected for a few minutes. If it returns, a garage needs to diagnose or reprogram the computer. - **P0606** — Engine computer processor fault. An internal fault in an engine or gearbox computer. Get this checked soon. A one-off glitch can clear after the battery is disconnected for a few minutes. If it returns, a garage needs to diagnose or reprogram the computer. - **P0641** — Sensor reference voltage A circuit open. A sensor the engine relies on sends a signal that is too high, too low, or doesn't make sense. Get this checked soon. Check its plug and wiring for damage or corrosion. A garage can test the sensor before replacing it. - **P0651** — Sensor reference voltage B circuit open. A sensor the engine relies on sends a signal that is too high, too low, or doesn't make sense. Get this checked soon. Check its plug and wiring for damage or corrosion. A garage can test the sensor before replacing it. - **P0685** — Engine computer power relay circuit open. The car's electrical supply is too low or too high. Get this checked soon. Have the battery and alternator tested — many parts shops do it free. Check the battery terminals are clean and tight. - **P0700** — Automatic gearbox control system fault. A fault in the automatic gearbox or its control. Get this checked soon. Check the gearbox fluid, if your car has a dipstick for it. Harsh or missing gear changes: drive gently to a garage. - **P0705** — Gear selector position sensor circuit. A fault in the automatic gearbox or its control. Get this checked soon. Check the gearbox fluid, if your car has a dipstick for it. Harsh or missing gear changes: drive gently to a garage. - **P0710** — Gearbox fluid temperature sensor circuit. A fault in the automatic gearbox or its control. Get this checked soon. Check the gearbox fluid, if your car has a dipstick for it. Harsh or missing gear changes: drive gently to a garage. - **P0715** — Gearbox input speed sensor circuit. A fault in the automatic gearbox or its control. Get this checked soon. Check the gearbox fluid, if your car has a dipstick for it. Harsh or missing gear changes: drive gently to a garage. - **P0720** — Gearbox output speed sensor circuit. A fault in the automatic gearbox or its control. Get this checked soon. Check the gearbox fluid, if your car has a dipstick for it. Harsh or missing gear changes: drive gently to a garage. - **P0730** — Incorrect gear ratio. A fault in the automatic gearbox or its control. Get this checked soon. Check the gearbox fluid, if your car has a dipstick for it. Harsh or missing gear changes: drive gently to a garage. - **P0731** — Incorrect ratio in 1st gear. A fault in the automatic gearbox or its control. Get this checked soon. Check the gearbox fluid, if your car has a dipstick for it. Harsh or missing gear changes: drive gently to a garage. - **P0732** — Incorrect ratio in 2nd gear. A fault in the automatic gearbox or its control. Get this checked soon. Check the gearbox fluid, if your car has a dipstick for it. Harsh or missing gear changes: drive gently to a garage. - **P0733** — Incorrect ratio in 3rd gear. A fault in the automatic gearbox or its control. Get this checked soon. Check the gearbox fluid, if your car has a dipstick for it. Harsh or missing gear changes: drive gently to a garage. - **P0734** — Incorrect ratio in 4th gear. A fault in the automatic gearbox or its control. Get this checked soon. Check the gearbox fluid, if your car has a dipstick for it. Harsh or missing gear changes: drive gently to a garage. - **P0740** — Torque converter clutch circuit. A fault in the automatic gearbox or its control. Get this checked soon. Check the gearbox fluid, if your car has a dipstick for it. Harsh or missing gear changes: drive gently to a garage. - **P0741** — Torque converter clutch stuck off. A fault in the automatic gearbox or its control. Get this checked soon. Check the gearbox fluid, if your car has a dipstick for it. Harsh or missing gear changes: drive gently to a garage. - **P0750** — Shift solenoid A. A fault in the automatic gearbox or its control. Get this checked soon. Check the gearbox fluid, if your car has a dipstick for it. Harsh or missing gear changes: drive gently to a garage. - **P0755** — Shift solenoid B. A fault in the automatic gearbox or its control. Get this checked soon. Check the gearbox fluid, if your car has a dipstick for it. Harsh or missing gear changes: drive gently to a garage. - **P0868** — Gearbox fluid pressure low. A fault in the automatic gearbox or its control. Get this checked soon. Check the gearbox fluid, if your car has a dipstick for it. Harsh or missing gear changes: drive gently to a garage. - **P1000** — Self-tests not finished yet (Ford and some others). Not a fault: the car's self-tests haven't finished since the battery was disconnected or the codes were cleared. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Drive normally for a few days; it clears by itself. - **P2002** — Diesel particulate filter not working well (bank 1). The diesel particulate filter is clogging, or isn't cleaning itself. Get this checked soon. A 20-minute drive at a steady motorway speed often lets it clean itself. If the light stays, a garage can force a clean — ignoring it can mean an expensive replacement. - **P2096** — Fuel mixture after the catalytic converter too lean (bank 1). The engine is getting too much air, or too little fuel. Get this checked soon. Look for a cracked or loose air hose between the air filter and the engine. A dirty air-flow sensor, a weak fuel pump or a blocked fuel filter can also cause it — a garage can test each. - **P2097** — Fuel mixture after the catalytic converter too rich (bank 1). The engine is getting too much fuel, or too little air. Get this checked soon. Check the air filter. A leaking injector or a faulty sensor are common causes — have a garage check. - **P2135** — Throttle or pedal position sensors disagree. A sensor the engine relies on sends a signal that is too high, too low, or doesn't make sense. Get this checked soon. Check its plug and wiring for damage or corrosion. A garage can test the sensor before replacing it. - **P2195** — Oxygen sensor stuck lean (bank 1, sensor 1). An oxygen (lambda) sensor, or its heater, isn't working as expected. Get this checked soon. Oxygen sensors wear out — a garage can test and replace the sensor. Fuel use may rise until it's fixed. - **P2196** — Oxygen sensor stuck rich (bank 1, sensor 1). An oxygen (lambda) sensor, or its heater, isn't working as expected. Get this checked soon. Oxygen sensors wear out — a garage can test and replace the sensor. Fuel use may rise until it's fixed. - **P2270** — Oxygen sensor stuck lean (bank 1, sensor 2). An oxygen (lambda) sensor, or its heater, isn't working as expected. Get this checked soon. Oxygen sensors wear out — a garage can test and replace the sensor. Fuel use may rise until it's fixed. - **P2271** — Oxygen sensor stuck rich (bank 1, sensor 2). An oxygen (lambda) sensor, or its heater, isn't working as expected. Get this checked soon. Oxygen sensors wear out — a garage can test and replace the sensor. Fuel use may rise until it's fixed. - **P2463** — Diesel particulate filter soot build-up. The diesel particulate filter is clogging, or isn't cleaning itself. Get this checked soon. A 20-minute drive at a steady motorway speed often lets it clean itself. If the light stays, a garage can force a clean — ignoring it can mean an expensive replacement. ### Car — dashboard warning light - **Check engine (orange engine shape)** — The engine computer has found a fault. Get this checked soon. Steady: drive on, but get the code read soon — many parts shops do it free. Flashing: a serious misfire. Drive gently to a garage straight away. - **Oil can (red)** — Oil pressure is too low. Stop now — this can be dangerous, or cause serious damage. Stop safely and switch off the engine now. Check the oil level; don't drive until it's fixed — the engine can be destroyed in minutes. - **Thermometer in water (red)** — The engine is overheating. Stop now — this can be dangerous, or cause serious damage. Stop safely and switch off. Wait for it to cool before opening anything; check the coolant. Call for help if it happens again. - **Battery (red)** — The charging system isn't charging the battery. Get this checked soon. Switch off what you don't need (heating, radio) and drive to a garage — the car can stop when the battery runs flat. - **BRAKE, or ( ! ) in a circle (red)** — The parking brake is on — or brake fluid is low or the brakes have a fault. Stop now — this can be dangerous, or cause serious damage. Check the parking brake is fully off. If the light stays on, stop and don't drive: have the brakes checked. - **ABS (orange)** — The anti-lock braking system is off. Normal brakes still work. Get this checked soon. Drive carefully, leave more space, and have it checked soon. - **Person with a circle — airbag (red or orange)** — An airbag or seat belt tensioner fault: the airbags may not work in a crash. Get this checked soon. Have it checked soon. - **Horseshoe with ( ! ) — tyre pressure (orange)** — A tyre's pressure is low. Get this checked soon. Check all tyres and pump them to the pressure on the sticker in the door frame. If a tyre is visibly flat, don't drive on it. - **Car with wavy lines (orange)** — Flashing: traction control is working on a slippery road. Steady: the system is off or faulty. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Flashing: slow down. Steady: drive carefully and have it checked. - **Steering wheel with ( ! ) (orange or red)** — A power steering fault — the wheel may get heavy. Get this checked soon. Drive carefully to a garage; red means stop when safe. - **Coil shape — glow plugs (orange, diesel)** — The diesel engine is warming up to start. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Wait until it goes out, then start. If it flashes while driving, have it checked. - **Box with dots — particulate filter (orange, diesel)** — The diesel particulate filter is getting full. Get this checked soon. Drive 20 minutes at a steady motorway speed so it can clean itself. If it stays on, see a garage. - **Fluid drop — AdBlue or DEF (orange)** — AdBlue (DEF) is low or its system has a fault. Get this checked soon. Top up AdBlue soon — when it runs out, many cars won't restart. - **Fuel pump (orange)** — Fuel is low. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Fill up soon — running dry can damage the fuel pump. - **Person with seat belt (red)** — A seat belt isn't fastened. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Fasten every seat belt. - **Car with open doors (red)** — A door, the bonnet or the boot isn't closed. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Stop and close it properly. - **Thermometer (blue)** — The engine is still cold. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Drive gently until it goes out. ### Washing machine - **Samsung 4C** (4E, E1) — No water is coming in. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Check the tap is fully open and the inlet hose isn't kinked. Clean the little filter where the hose meets the machine. - **Samsung 5C** (5E, SE, E2) — The water isn't draining. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Clean the drain filter (small door at the bottom front) — have a towel ready. Check the drain hose isn't kinked or blocked. - **Samsung UB** (UE, UB, UN) — The load is unbalanced. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Spread the laundry evenly; mixing big and small items helps. Very small or single heavy loads cause it too. - **Samsung DC** (DE, DDC, DE1, DE2) — The door isn't locked or closed properly. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Close the door firmly; remove any clothing caught in the seal. If it keeps showing, the door lock may be faulty. - **Samsung LE** (LC, E9) — Water leak or water level problem. Get this checked soon. Check the drain hose isn't too low or pushed too far into the drain. Look for water under the machine — if there is, turn off the tap and call for repair. - **Samsung HE** (HC, H1) — A heating problem. Get this checked soon. Switch off, unplug for a few minutes, and try again. If it comes back, the heater needs repair. - **Samsung TE** (TC) — The temperature sensor has a fault. Get this checked soon. Unplug for a few minutes and retry; if it returns, call for repair. - **Samsung 3E** (3C, 3E1, 3E2, 3E3, 3E4, EA) — A motor fault. Get this checked soon. Reduce the load and retry. If it returns, call for repair. - **Samsung SUD** (SD, 5D, SUDS) — Too much foam. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Use less detergent, and only the kind made for washing machines (HE). The cycle usually carries on by itself. - **Samsung OE** (OF, OC, E3) — Too much water in the drum. Get this checked soon. Switch off and turn off the tap. If water keeps coming in with the machine off, the inlet valve needs repair. - **Samsung PE** (1E, 1C, E7) — The water level sensor has a fault. Get this checked soon. Unplug for a few minutes and retry; if it returns, call for repair. - **Samsung AE** (AC, AC6) — The machine's boards aren't talking to each other. Get this checked soon. Unplug for 10 minutes and retry; if it returns, call for repair. - **Samsung BE** (BE1, BE2, BE3, BC2) — A button is stuck. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Press each button gently to free it, then restart. - **LG IE** — No water is coming in (or too slowly). Usually safe to sort out yourself. Check the tap is fully open and the hose isn't kinked. Clean the inlet filters where the hoses connect. - **LG OE** — The water isn't draining. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Clean the drain pump filter (bottom front). Check the drain hose isn't kinked or blocked. - **LG UE** — The load is unbalanced. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Spread the laundry evenly and restart. - **LG DE** (DE1, DE2) — The door isn't closed or locked. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Close the door firmly; check nothing is caught in the seal. - **LG LE** — The motor is locked or overloaded. Get this checked soon. Reduce the load, wait 30 minutes, then retry. If it returns, call for repair. - **LG PE** — The water level sensor has a fault. Get this checked soon. Unplug for a few minutes and retry; if it returns, call for repair. - **LG FE** — Too much water (overfill). Get this checked soon. Turn off the tap and unplug. If water keeps coming in, the inlet valve needs repair. - **LG TE** — A heating or temperature sensor fault. Get this checked soon. Unplug for a few minutes and retry; if it returns, call for repair. - **LG CL** — Not a fault: the child lock is on. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Hold the Child Lock button (often two buttons together) for 3 seconds to turn it off. - **LG SUD** (SD) — Too much foam. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Use less detergent, and only HE detergent. - **Bosch or Siemens E17** (F17) — No water, or too little, is coming in. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Open the tap fully; check the hose isn't kinked and its filter is clean. - **Bosch or Siemens E18** (F18) — The water isn't draining. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Clean the drain pump filter (bottom front) and check the drain hose. - **Bosch or Siemens E23** — Water in the base of the machine (leak protection). Get this checked soon. Turn off the tap and unplug; call for repair. - **Whirlpool F5E2** (F5, F5 E2) — The door lock can't lock. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Close the door firmly; check nothing blocks the latch; restart. - **Whirlpool F8E1** (F8, LOFL, LO FL, LF) — Water takes too long to fill. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Open both taps fully; clean the inlet hose filters. - **Whirlpool F9E1** (F9) — Water takes too long to drain. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Check the drain hose isn't kinked or blocked; clean the pump filter if your model has one. - **Whirlpool F7E1** (F7) — A motor or drive fault. Get this checked soon. Unplug for a minute and retry; if it returns, call for repair. - **Whirlpool F1E1** (F1) — A control board fault. Get this checked soon. Unplug for a minute and retry; if it returns, call for repair. - **Whirlpool SD** (SUD) — Too much foam. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Use less detergent, and only HE detergent. - **Electrolux or AEG E10** (E11, E13) — No water is coming in. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Open the tap fully; check the hose and its filter. - **Electrolux or AEG E20** (E21, E23, E24) — The water isn't draining. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Clean the drain pump filter and check the drain hose. - **Electrolux or AEG E40** (E41, E42, E43, E44) — The door isn't closed properly. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Close the door firmly and restart. - **Electrolux or AEG E50** (E51, E52, E53, E54) — A motor fault. Get this checked soon. Unplug for a few minutes and retry; if it returns, call for repair. - **Electrolux or AEG E90** (E91, E92, E93) — The machine's boards aren't talking to each other. Get this checked soon. Unplug for 10 minutes and retry; if it returns, call for repair. - Samsung's support: https://www.samsung.com/support/ - LG's support: https://www.lg.com/us/support - Bosch or Siemens's support: https://www.bosch-home.com - Whirlpool's support: https://www.whirlpool.com - Electrolux or AEG's support: https://www.electrolux.com ### Dishwasher - **Samsung 4C** (4E, IE) — No water is coming in. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Open the tap fully; check the hose isn't kinked. - **Samsung 5C** (5E, OC) — The water isn't draining. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Clean the filter at the bottom of the tub; check the drain hose. - **Samsung HE** (HC) — A heating problem. Get this checked soon. Unplug for a few minutes and retry; if it returns, call for repair. - **Samsung LC** (LE) — Water leak detected. Get this checked soon. Turn off the water and unplug; check for water under the machine; call for repair. - **LG IE** — No water is coming in. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Open the tap fully; check the hose and inlet filter. - **LG OE** — The water isn't draining. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Clean the filters at the bottom of the tub; check the drain hose. - **LG HE** — A heating fault. Get this checked soon. Unplug for a few minutes and retry; if it returns, call for repair. - **LG LE** — A motor fault. Get this checked soon. Unplug for a few minutes and retry; if it returns, call for repair. - **LG TE** — A temperature sensor fault. Get this checked soon. Unplug for a few minutes and retry; if it returns, call for repair. - **Bosch or Siemens E15** — Water in the base (leak protection is on). Get this checked soon. Turn off the water and unplug. Tilting the machine gently can let water out of the base — then call for repair if it returns. - **Bosch or Siemens E24** — The water isn't draining — the drain hose is blocked or kinked. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Check the drain hose and the sink connection. - **Bosch or Siemens E25** — The drain pump is blocked. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Clean the filters; remove the pump cover under them and clear any glass or bits. - **Bosch or Siemens E22** — The filters are blocked. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Clean the filters at the bottom of the tub. - **Bosch or Siemens E09** — A heating fault. Get this checked soon. Unplug for a few minutes and retry; if it returns, call for repair. - Samsung's support: https://www.samsung.com/support/ - LG's support: https://www.lg.com/us/support - Bosch or Siemens's support: https://www.bosch-home.com ### Boiler - **Worcester Bosch EA 227** (EA, 227, EA227) — No flame detected — the boiler couldn't light. Get this checked soon. Check the gas is on (other gas appliances, the meter, prepayment credit). Press reset once. If it locks out again, call a Gas Safe engineer. - **Worcester Bosch CE 207** (CE, 207, CE207) — Water pressure is too low. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Top up the pressure to about 1–1.5 bar (with the boiler cold) using the filling loop, as your manual shows. If it keeps dropping, there's a leak — call an engineer. - **Worcester Bosch E9 224** (E9, 224, E9224) — The boiler overheated and shut down for safety. Get this checked soon. Check the pressure and that radiator valves are open; press reset once. If it happens again, call a Gas Safe engineer. - **Vaillant F.22** (F22) — Water pressure is too low (dry fire protection). Usually safe to sort out yourself. Top up the pressure to about 1–1.5 bar with the boiler cold, as your manual shows. If it keeps dropping, call an engineer. - **Vaillant F.28** (F28) — The boiler didn't light when starting. Get this checked soon. Check the gas is on, and prepayment credit if you have a meter card. Press reset once; if it returns, call a Gas Safe engineer. - **Vaillant F.29** (F29) — The flame went out while running. Get this checked soon. Check the gas supply; in frost, a frozen condensate pipe can cause it — thaw it with warm (not boiling) water. Press reset; if it returns, call an engineer. - **Vaillant F.75** (F75) — No pressure rise detected when the pump started — pump or pressure sensor. Get this checked soon. Check the pressure is 1–1.5 bar; bleed radiators if there's air. If it returns, call an engineer. - **Vaillant F.20** (F20) — The safety thermostat tripped (overheating). Get this checked soon. Check the pressure and that radiator valves are open; reset once; call an engineer if it returns. - **Vaillant F.62** (F62) — The gas valve was slow to close. Get this checked soon. Call a Gas Safe engineer. - **Vaillant F.00** (F00, F.01, F01) — A temperature sensor fault (flow or return). Get this checked soon. Call an engineer. - **Vaillant F.32** (F32) — A fan fault — in frost, often a frozen condensate pipe. Get this checked soon. Thaw the condensate pipe with warm water if it's frozen, then reset; otherwise call an engineer. - **Baxi E119** (119) — Water pressure is too low. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Top up to about 1–1.5 bar with the boiler cold, as your manual shows; then reset. - **Baxi E133** (133) — The boiler couldn't light — gas supply or ignition. Get this checked soon. Check the gas is on and your meter has credit; reset once; if it returns, call a Gas Safe engineer. - **Baxi E110** (110) — The boiler overheated. Get this checked soon. Check the pressure and radiator valves; reset once; call an engineer if it returns. - **Baxi E125** (125) — Water isn't circulating properly (pump or pressure). Get this checked soon. Check the pressure; bleed radiators; call an engineer if it returns. - **Baxi E160** (160) — A fan fault. Get this checked soon. Call an engineer. - **Ideal F1** — Water pressure is too low. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Top up to about 1–1.5 bar with the boiler cold, as your manual shows. - **Ideal F2** — The flame went out. Get this checked soon. Check the gas supply and meter credit; reset; call an engineer if it returns. - **Ideal F3** — A fan fault. Get this checked soon. Call an engineer. - **Ideal F4** (F5) — A temperature sensor fault (flow or return). Get this checked soon. Call an engineer. - **Ideal L2** — Ignition lockout — the boiler couldn't light. Get this checked soon. Check the gas is on; press reset once; in frost, check the condensate pipe isn't frozen; call an engineer if it returns. - Worcester Bosch's support: https://www.worcester-bosch.co.uk - Vaillant's support: https://www.vaillant.co.uk - Baxi's support: https://www.baxi.co.uk - Ideal's support: https://idealheating.com ### Air conditioner - **Daikin U0** — Refrigerant is low. Get this checked soon. Call an air-conditioning technician — refrigerant needs a certified professional. - **Daikin U4** — The indoor and outdoor units aren't communicating. Get this checked soon. Switch off at the breaker for 10 minutes, then on. If it returns, call a technician. - **Daikin A3** — The condensate drain has a problem (water not draining). Get this checked soon. Switch off; check for dripping water; call a technician to clear the drain. - **Daikin A6** — Indoor fan motor fault. Get this checked soon. Switch off and call a technician. - **Daikin C4** (C9) — A temperature sensor fault. Get this checked soon. Switch off at the breaker, wait, restart; call a technician if it returns. - **Daikin E7** — Outdoor fan motor fault. Get this checked soon. Check nothing blocks the outdoor fan; call a technician if it returns. - **LG CH01** (CH1) — Indoor room temperature sensor fault. Get this checked soon. Switch off at the breaker for a few minutes; call a technician if it returns. - **LG CH02** (CH2) — Indoor pipe temperature sensor fault. Get this checked soon. Switch off at the breaker for a few minutes; call a technician if it returns. - **LG CH05** (CH5) — The indoor and outdoor units aren't communicating. Get this checked soon. Switch off at the breaker for 10 minutes; call a technician if it returns. - **Gree E1** — High-pressure protection. Get this checked soon. Clean the filters; check the outdoor unit isn't blocked; restart. Call a technician if it returns. - **Gree E2** — Anti-freeze protection on the indoor unit. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Clean the filters; let it run in fan mode; it usually recovers by itself. - **Gree E5** — Over-current protection. Get this checked soon. Switch off at the breaker for a few minutes; call a technician if it returns. - **Gree E6** — The indoor and outdoor units aren't communicating. Get this checked soon. Switch off at the breaker for 10 minutes; call a technician if it returns. - **Gree F1** — Indoor room temperature sensor fault. Get this checked soon. Call a technician. - **Gree F2** — Indoor coil temperature sensor fault. Get this checked soon. Call a technician. - Daikin's support: https://www.daikin.com - LG's support: https://www.lg.com/us/support - Gree's support: https://global.gree.com ### Fridge or freezer - **Samsung OF OF** (OFOF, O F O F, OF) — Not a fault: demo (shop display) mode is on — it lights up but doesn't cool. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Press and hold the two top-left buttons (often Freezer and Fridge, or Power Freeze and Fridge) together for about 5 seconds until it beeps — the exact pair is in your manual. - **Samsung 22E** (22C) — Freezer fan fault — often ice around the fan. Get this checked soon. Unplug for 24 hours with the doors open to defrost (towels ready), then restart. Call for repair if it returns. - **Samsung 5E** (5C) — Fridge defrost sensor fault. Get this checked soon. A manual defrost (unplugged, doors open, 24 hours) often clears it; call for repair if it returns. - **LG ER FF** (ERFF, FF) — Freezer fan fault — often ice around the fan. Get this checked soon. Unplug for 24 hours with the doors open to defrost, then restart; call for repair if it returns. - **LG ER IF** (ERIF, IF) — Ice maker fan fault. Get this checked soon. Defrost for 24 hours (unplugged); call for repair if it returns. - **LG ER DH** (ERDH, DH) — Defrost heater fault. Get this checked soon. Call for repair; a manual defrost gets you by meanwhile. - **LG ER RS** (ERRS, RS) — Fridge temperature sensor fault. Get this checked soon. Call for repair. - Samsung's support: https://www.samsung.com/support/ - LG's support: https://www.lg.com/us/support ### Printer - **Canon 1300** — Paper jam. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Turn it off, then gently pull the jammed paper out the way it goes through. Check the rear and inside for torn bits. - **Canon 1401** — The print head isn't installed or recognised. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Turn off, reseat the print head (or cartridges) firmly, and turn on. - **Canon 1600** — Ink may have run out. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Replace the ink or cartridge shown on the screen. - **Canon 1700** — The ink absorber (waste ink pad) is almost full. Get this checked soon. You can keep printing for now; a service centre replaces the absorber. - **Canon 5100** — The print head carriage can't move — something is in the way. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Turn off, open the cover, remove any paper, tape or objects, and check the cartridges are seated. Turn on. - **Canon 5200** — Print head temperature error. Get this checked soon. Turn off and unplug for 10 minutes; check ink levels. If it returns, contact Canon support. - **Canon 5B00** (5B01, 5B02, 5B03, 5B04, 5B05) — The ink absorber is full — the printer stops to prevent ink leaking. Get this checked soon. Contact Canon support or a service centre to replace the absorber. - **Canon 6000** — Paper feed or line feed error. Get this checked soon. Turn off, remove any paper or objects, and turn on. If it returns, contact support. - **Canon B200** — A print head or voltage error. Get this checked soon. Turn off and unplug for 10 minutes; if it returns, the print head or printer needs service. - Canon's support: https://www.canon.com - HP's support: https://support.hp.com - Epson's support: https://www.epson.com - Brother's support: https://support.brother.com ### Computer (Windows) - **Windows CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED** (0xEF, EF) — A core part of Windows stopped unexpectedly. Get this checked soon. Restart. If it repeats, run Windows Update and check your drivers. Search 'cmd', run as administrator, and type sfc /scannow to repair system files. - **Windows IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL** (0xA, A) — A driver or program touched memory it shouldn't — usually a faulty driver. Get this checked soon. Update or roll back the driver you installed most recently (Device Manager). Run Windows Memory Diagnostic. - **Windows PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA** (0x50, 50) — Windows looked for data in memory and couldn't find it — often faulty RAM or a driver. Get this checked soon. Run Windows Memory Diagnostic; update drivers; remove recently added hardware. - **Windows SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION** (0x3B, 3B) — A system process crashed — often a graphics or antivirus driver. Get this checked soon. Update graphics drivers and Windows; uninstall recently added software. - **Windows KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED** (0x1E, 1E) — A driver caused an error Windows couldn't handle. Get this checked soon. Update or roll back recent drivers. - **Windows DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL** (0xD1, D1) — A driver used memory incorrectly — the file named on the screen is usually the culprit. Get this checked soon. Update or reinstall the driver named on the blue screen (often network or graphics). - **Windows INACCESSIBLE_BOOT_DEVICE** (0x7B, 7B) — Windows can't reach the drive it starts from. Get this checked soon. Check disk cables if it's a desktop; undo recent BIOS changes; try Startup Repair from the recovery screen. - **Windows UNEXPECTED_KERNEL_MODE_TRAP** (0x7F, 7F) — Often a hardware fault — memory or overheating. Get this checked soon. Check the computer isn't overheating (clean the vents); run Windows Memory Diagnostic. - **Windows VIDEO_TDR_FAILURE** (0x116, 116) — The graphics driver stopped responding. Get this checked soon. Update the graphics driver from the maker (NVIDIA, AMD, Intel); check for overheating. - **Windows MEMORY_MANAGEMENT** (0x1A, 1A) — A memory management error — often faulty RAM. Get this checked soon. Run Windows Memory Diagnostic; reseat or test memory modules. - **Windows DPC_WATCHDOG_VIOLATION** (0x133, 133) — A driver took too long — often a storage (SSD) or other driver. Get this checked soon. Update storage (SSD) firmware and drivers; update Windows. - **Windows WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR** (0x124, 124) — A hardware error — often overheating, overclocking or failing hardware. Get this checked soon. Remove any overclocking; check temperatures; test memory and the drive. - **Windows CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT** (0x101, 101) — The processor stopped responding. Get this checked soon. Remove any overclocking; update the BIOS and chipset drivers. - **Windows SYSTEM_THREAD_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED** (0x7E, 7E) — A system thread hit an error — usually a driver. Get this checked soon. Update or roll back recent drivers (often graphics). - **Windows BAD_POOL_HEADER** (0x19, 19) — Memory corruption — often a driver or antivirus. Get this checked soon. Update drivers; uninstall recently added antivirus or software; test memory. - **Windows NTFS_FILE_SYSTEM** (0x24, 24) — A problem reading the drive's file system. Get this checked soon. Back up your files; run chkdsk /f from an administrator command prompt. - **Windows CRITICAL_STRUCTURE_CORRUPTION** (0x109, 109) — A core Windows structure was changed unexpectedly — often a driver or faulty memory. Get this checked soon. Update drivers; test memory. - **Windows KERNEL_SECURITY_CHECK_FAILURE** (0x139, 139) — Windows found corrupted data — often drivers or memory. Get this checked soon. Update drivers; run sfc /scannow and Windows Memory Diagnostic. - **Windows DRIVER_POWER_STATE_FAILURE** (0x9F, 9F) — A driver didn't handle sleep or wake properly. Get this checked soon. Update drivers (graphics, network, storage); update Windows. - **Windows UNMOUNTABLE_BOOT_VOLUME** (0xED, ED) — Windows can't open its start-up drive. Get this checked soon. Try Startup Repair; run chkdsk /f from the recovery command prompt. - **Windows 0x80070005** (80070005) — Access denied — Windows Update (or an install) lacks permission. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Sign in with an administrator account and retry; run the Windows Update troubleshooter. - **Windows 0x80070002** (80070002) — A file Windows Update needs is missing. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Run the Windows Update troubleshooter and retry. - **Windows 0x800F0922** (800F0922) — An update couldn't install — often a VPN or not enough reserved space. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Disconnect any VPN and retry; free up disk space. - **Windows 0x8024402C** (8024402C) — Windows Update can't reach the servers — connection or proxy settings. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Check your internet connection and any proxy or VPN, then retry. - **Windows 0x80073712** (80073712) — A Windows file needed for updates is damaged. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Run DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth, then sfc /scannow, from an administrator command prompt. - Windows's support: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/resolving-blue-screen-errors-in-windows-60b01860-58f2-be66-7516-5c45a66ae3c6 ### Game console - **PlayStation CE-34878-0** (CE348780) — A game or app crashed (PS4). Usually safe to sort out yourself. Close the app, install the latest system and game updates, and restart the console. - **PlayStation CE-108255-1** (CE1082551) — A game or app crashed (PS5). Usually safe to sort out yourself. Close the app, update the game and the console, and restart. - **PlayStation SU-42118-6** (SU421186) — A system update failed (PS4). Get this checked soon. Restart and try the update again; if it keeps failing, install it in Safe Mode with a USB drive, as PlayStation's guide shows. - PlayStation's support: https://www.playstation.com/support/error-codes/ - Xbox's support: https://support.xbox.com/help/errors/error-code-lookup ### Streaming app - **Netflix NW-2-5** (NW25) — A network problem stops Netflix reaching its service. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Restart your device and your router; check other apps can go online. - **Netflix UI-800-3** (UI8003) — Stored Netflix data on the device needs refreshing. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Sign out of Netflix and back in; restart the device, or reinstall the app. - **Netflix M7111-1331** (M71111331) — Usually a bookmarked or outdated Netflix page, or a browser extension. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Go to netflix.com directly (not a bookmark) and turn off browser extensions. - Netflix's support: https://help.netflix.com ### Website - **400** — Bad request — the website couldn't understand the request. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Check the address; clear the site's cookies and try again. - **401** — You need to sign in to see this. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Sign in, or check you're using the right account. - **403** — Forbidden — you don't have permission, or the site blocked the request. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Sign in with an account that has access; a VPN can trigger it. - **404** — Page not found — it moved, or the address is wrong. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Check the address for typos; go to the site's home page and search. - **408** — The request took too long. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Reload; check your connection. - **429** — Too many requests in a short time. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Wait a few minutes, then try again. - **500** — The website has an internal error — not your fault. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Reload later; the site's team has to fix it. - **502** — Bad gateway — one of the website's servers didn't answer properly. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Reload in a few minutes. - **503** — The website is down or overloaded. Usually safe to sort out yourself. Try again later. - **504** — The website's servers took too long to answer. Usually safe to sort out yourself. 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